Autumn/Winter 2012 London Fashion Week

Inspired by the juxtaposition between Russian peasants and royalties, Autumn Winter 2012 delves into the stories surrounding the final czars of the Romanov family and the myth of their daughter Anastasia, the sole survivor of the family massacre. Exploring the journey of her escape and the loss of her privileged life, Fyodor Golan investigated the correlation to that of an insect that changes itself for protection.

Utilising biology and researching insects, from beetles to butterflies, microscopic detail is explored and dissected. Focusing on their construction and innate qualities, these silhouettes evolved into the pattern process to create the fragility and strength reflecting the creature itself in the aesthetic. Showcasing peasant detailing, braids and traditional weaving techniques, the handcrafted decoration is central to the collection and provides rich depth and form.

This season Fyodor Golan incorporate contrasting textures from luxurious Mongolian velvets to quilted leather and lamb furs, that have been worked into with bleach and shaving methods to en-chance the body. Prints are explored and created using the close up imagery found in the textures of insects and transformed into jacquard fabrics. The colour palette features contrasting bold tones of green and red against a monochrome backdrop with metallic highlights.

New additions to the collection this season include sharp tailoring, overcoats and knitwear, incorporating the Fyodor Golan trademarks of sculpted lines, luxurious detailing and attention to detail. Accessories evolve to include facial adornments through a collaboration with Alexandra Druzhinin, where sharp and elegant nose rings inspired by Ethel Granger, one of the muses for this season, combines elements of 1950′s elegance and tribalism.

Images & Text courtesy FYODOR GOLAN

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