The big of Antwerp´s Royal Academy.
by Valentina Plumari

Antwerp’s royal academy formed amazing designers. They are deeply different but with something in common: the success.

Ann Demeulemeester’s  fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear fashion show in Paris was brilliant, as always. Just two colours to represent the essential, the purity of beauty. Hats with long feathers flying over the heads of the models. A dream, a bad one, with double emotions. A black beautiful warrior fighting against daily life, heavy leather boots and firm huge belt to protect herself. And a white 19th-century princess with floating transparent dress and extra long coats. Fur and fringe are her weapons. Two way to see the same concept. A strong person who suffers but resists. Exactly, what we need today.

Maison Martin Margiela presented the fall 2013 rtw collection in Paris fashion week. The fashion show started with Nick Cave’s song  ”Fire in the Blood/Snake Song”, the models came out with male suits similar to uniforms and the atmosphere was complete. A peculiar androgyne theme goes on during the defilè. The details are not negligible. Hand-painted fluo lines, oversize cuffs and long silk dresses  covered by rebels writings. This Margiela fashion show introduced male tailoring but a touch of feminine is always there, such as transparency and embroidery. The unlimited originality of the Maison gave a nonconformist resault. A success, as always.

Haider Ackermann’s career is going as fast as his talent. For the fall winter fashion show in Paris he demostrates again his skills. The jacket is the main character of the outfits. In leather, fur, whool, black, gray or brown, the jacket is always there, with strong shoulders and defined waists. Not a soldier, not a princess, Haider Ackermann’s woman is a very modern person, as we can see in the choice of super cool short white hair. This woman is elegant and essential. Optical patterns , oversize collars and uncovered shoulders are feminine and effective.  Ackermann  did a really good job getting all the different fabrics  to match so well  together creating armony and a fresh start for next winter.

Dries Van Noten never let  you down. In Paris fashion week he presented his fall winter 2013 collection. Different layers cover a really determined woman. Stripes and floreal patterns wrap up the models. Floating feathers and fringes cover dresses and shirts. Overlapping is the main theme. The trousers go with the skirt and the dresses with flounces. Flat shoes with laces are the perfect combination between past and future. Tradition and modernity melt together create precious outifts. Classy, simple and priceless.

by Valentina Plumari

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